Fiesta in Oaxaca



The same annual festivals and celebrations in that occur in the City of Oaxaca, also take place all over the state, along with the fiesta of the local patron saint. The celebrations are elaborate in towns like Teotitlan del Valle, where the Zapotecs are prosperous from the wool rug industry, and more modest where the people are poor. Some towns throw big fiestas no matter the state of their economy, making remarkable sacrifices to do so: San Andres Huaxpaltepec on the Pacific Coast for the Day of Jesus the Nazarene, and San Pedro Amusgos for the day of Saint Peter. Festivals are organized and financed by historic organizations in the localities, and the responsibilities are a serious civic and religious obligation.

Each festival has special parties, religious and civic activities, foods, and flowers, as well as expanded handicraft production and shopping opportunities. Following the festivals is greatly entertaining and gives a visitor a deeper insight into Mexican people, customs and crafts. The religious processions and church ceremonies are accompanied by popular dances, sports events, bullfights, beauty pageants, feasts, elaborate fireworks displays, and open-air markets. Vendors from far and wide set up their stalls under awnings in the parks and streets. Public spectacles with costumed actors as pre-Hispanic or Christian personages and animals (devils, cows, mules, bulls, goats, and tigers are popular).

The major festivals are impressive productions, but catching a little one can be almost as exciting. Almost impossible to know about ahead of time, you find out about them when a brass band comes within earshot or rounds a corner with the "marmotas" (big round lanterns) and "monos" (giant papier-mache figures) bobbing up and down, and determined ladies carrying flowers and the image of a "santo." This may be in honor of the founding of the organization of flower vendors in the markets of Benito Juarez and the Central de Abastos, for instance (the celebration is devoted to the Virgin of Guadalupe and takes place at the Church of Guadalupe in Oaxaca in June). The little parades end up at the churches, and maybe you can even get to attend the feast in the churchyard. That people persist in these sincere devotions is very touching; the cheery music, their innocence and faith are at once so brave and sad.

Featured in many of the festivals (and the glory of the Guelaguetza events in Oaxaca in July) is the "Danza de la Pluma," part of Oaxaca's version of the battle of the Christians and the Moors. It is an exciting and vigorous performance by a male dancer wearing a tall feathered headdress. Elaborate processions and ceremonies were an important part of pre-Hispanic life. The Christian dances were an effective sixteenth century audio-visual tool, concocted by the early friars to convert the Indians to the Catholic religion. Favorite personages are the Devil and skeletons, who also appear often in folk art. The friars, considering the ancient Indian gods as Satan, turned them into devils in their festivals: funny but frightening horned, grimacing red creatures with spears and tails. But the innocent Indians loved the charming devils and still do. Death, an important figure in pre-Hispanic religion and ceremony, is a familiar presence today in rural villages. In festivals, Death is always accompanied by the Devil. The life-long battle between good and evil is acted out in the plazas at festival time by these and other costumed, dancing figures. Enjoyment operates on different levels; to most people festivals are now mainly an opportunity to have fun.

Following is a list of the major holidays in the City of Oaxaca of most interest to visitors. The rural festivals are listed elsewhere in the directory under the name of each town.

Epiphany, "Dia de los Reyes Magos" (Day of the Three Kings). January 6. End of the Christmas holidays and the day that children are given their gifts. Stores and markets are full of toys and "roscas de reyes," a rich, twisted bread with dolls inside. Whoever gets one has to throw a party on Feb. 2nd.

Candlemas, "la Candelaria," February 2. Parties are given by finders of the "rosca" dolls, and families have their images of the Baby Jesus dressed up to be blessed in memory of the Presentation of the Christ Child in the Temple. Stands in the Abastos market sell the little crowns, robes and accessories and clothe the images. Many different models are available, and the array of finery is impressive.

Carnival. The Tuesday before Ash Wednesday and the last day before the beginning of Lent (flexible date). Celebrated with dances and other festivities; the best traditional Carnival celebration in Oaxaca is probably on the Pacific Coast at Pinotepa de Don Luis.

Lent or "Paseos de los Viernes de Cuaresma," early each Friday during Lent, university students at El Llano Park, accompanied by a band, choose beauty queen and give flowers to their favorites.

Holy Week or "Semana Santa." Flexible date, starting with Palm Sunday when woven crosses to protect homes and belongings are sold in the markets, plazas and in front of churches. On Holy Thursday visits are made to "the seven houses" or churches, with altars set up for "La Dolorosa," (Our Lady of Sorrows) with "chia" seeds sprouting green out of clay animals (symbolizing the Resurrection) and flowers and leaves of the maguey plant. On Good Friday the Passion and Crucifixion are acted out with holy images or live actors.

On Easter Sunday the Resurrection is celebrated with masses at midnight Saturday and at six on Sunday morning. At ten on Sunday the church bells ring to celebrate the "Misa de Gloria." In villages such as Zimatlan and Huixtepec the churches are filled with hundreds of vases of flowers and life-sized statues of the risen Christ.

Birthday of Benito Juarez, the Zapotec Indian President of Mexico born in Guelatao, a national holiday. March 21.

Day of the Holy Cross, "Dia de la Santa Cruz" or Day of the Masons, "Dia del Albañil." May 3. University of Oaxaca students dress up and play tricks as they dance through the streets, and small crosses are placed on buildings under construction.

Isthmus of Tehuantepec week celebrations, "Vela Ismeña," starting about May 10 (flexible). Dances, parties, processions of Tehuantepec ladies and girls in gala costumes take place in the City of Oaxaca.

Monday on the Hill, "Guelaguetza" or "Lunes del Cerro," last 2 Mondays of July. Since 1932, when Oaxaca celebrated its founding 400 years earlier, groups from many regions of the state have performed their wonderful native dances in all their varieties of costume. The original event, of pre-Hispanic origin, enacted reciprocal gift-giving and ceremonies in honor of the Corn Goddess. Reservations for the program must be made months in advance as it is one of the most well-attended events of the year.

History of the "Guelaguetza," last 2 Sundays of July Explanation and performance of ceremonies and dances for the Corn Goddess.

Independence Day, "Dia de la Independencia," September 15, 16. Military parades and re-enactment of the "Grito" or call for independence from Spain in 1810 take place.

Day of the Virgin of the Rosary, "Dia del Rosario," Oct. 18 Processions, masses.

Day of the Dead, "Dia de los Muertos," November 1, 2. On Nov. 1 is All Saints' Day, on Nov. 2 is All Soul's Day. Altars to honor and receive dead souls which return to earth once a year (deceased adults come for 24 hours, from 4 p.m on the lst to 4 p.m. on the 2nd, and children come the day before). Altars are set up in homes, markets and shops with food and drink, incense and flowers. Pre-Hispanic elements include the burning of copal incense and offerings of food. Graves are decorated with "cempoatzuchitl" (marigolds) and "borla" (cockscomb), candles, and food, and families keep an all-night vigil in the cemetery. Artisans work overtime for a month beforehand to provide the humorous accompaniments: toy skeletons, breads with skull decorations and sugar skulls with tinsel eyes and personal names on the foreheads (great gifts?)

Guadalupe Day, December 12. An important national holiday dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe, who appeared to the Indian Juan Diego on the hill of Tepeyac in the early 16th century and became the beloved saint of the Indians of Mexico. El Marques del Valle, Hernan Cortes, was especially devoted to her; the Emperor Maximilian built an altar for La Guadalupe in a church in his native Vienna.

Virgin of Solitude, "Virgin of la Soledad," Dec. 18. One of the most elaborate religious festivals in Oaxaca, held in celebration of the cult of the patron saint of the city. The church is filled with flowers, banners, candles and worshippers who come from all over the area. It is a glorious spectacle of profound religious sentiment, light and beauty. There are processions, fireworks and a big markets in the Alameda and plaza by the Soledad Church.

The Christmas season begins Dec. 16 and lasts through the Day of the Kings on Jan. 6. The events on Dec. 23, Night of the Radishes or "Noche de los Rabanos," are unique to Oaxaca. Large radishes are carved into elaborate scenes and figures and placed on display around the Zocalo, along with scenes of figures in the "flor inmortal" (brightly colored, dried straw flowers) and "totomoxtle" (corn husks).

The "Posadas" begin on Dec. 16 and continue to the 24, with enactments of the search for an inn by Mary and Joseph, to prepare for the birth of Jes£s. Festivities include singing the litanies of Joseph, Mary and the innkeeper, and the breaking of piñatas by the children. The "Posadas" are accompanied by lots of parties and feasting. Nativity scenes and altars are set up in parks, homes, shops and churches. If you wander through the streets in the popular barrios such as Jalatlaco and Xochimilco, you will catch glimpses of them in patios of houses, perhaps even one that won a prize in the city-wide contest.

In the markets and stores, Christmas decorations and religious images are sold in large quantities, from the moss and orchids called "San Miguelitos" the country people bring down from the mountains for the manger scenes, to the commercial tinsel, plastic tree ornaments and plaster figures for adornment of homes and altars. It is a time of great joy in Oaxaca, as in all Mexico. A very lively and colorful, huge open market in the Zocalo and Alameda Park (lasting six weeks) has food stands, handicrafts, games, and carnival rides. Beside the Cathedral, restaurant stands serve chocolate and "buñuelos" out of bowls which are then heaved against the sidewalk and smashed. One wonders if this has anything to do with the ancient Indian custom of destroying all of one's belongings every 52 years, at the end of a cycle proscribed by the Gods, or if it has a more prosaic origin.

Christmas Eve Processions, "Calendas de Noche Buena," Dec. 24, are parades from barrio churches around the Zocalo with giant papier-mache figures twirling about called "monos" and big lanterns or "marmotas", floats telling the Christmas story, and bands of music. This is one of the most beloved and well-attended festivals in Oaxaca and also the rest of Mexico.

Night of the Petition, "Noche del Pedimento," Dec. 31. On a hill near Mitla, ceremony is acted out at a tiny chapel where a cave represented the entrance to the other world, symbolized by the mouth of the jaguar god. Country people, and many of their city cousins, come with small models to petition favors from the god(s): cattle, houses, sometimes whole farms, automobiles, wives, good health, and just plain cash.


Thus ends the year in Oaxaca, with hope and families united in celebration.

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