Handicrafts in Oaxaca
BASKETRY
FIBER PRODUCTS
GLASSWARE, GOURDS, JEWELRY, LACQUER WARE, LEATHER GOODS
Making beautiful and useful things out of palms and reeds is one of the oldest and least-changed Mexican crafts. Basketry is produced all over Oaxaca wherever "carrizo", the local bamboo, grows along the waterways and palm fronds can pulled from the trees. Principal regions of production are around Sola de Vega and throughout the Mixteca area (the north-western part of the state bordering Puebla). The town of Huajuapan de Leon in the Upper Mixteca has two huge warehouses full of fine palm hats from villages all around. In the market place of Villa de Etla, not far to the northwest of the City of Oaxaca, beautiful baskets are sold during festivals with geometric designs in magenta, green and purple. In Juchitan, in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec where there are many palm groves, weavers make sombreros, baskets and mats. "Tenate" is the name of the palm baskets of various sizes, round or square-bottomed and made without handles, soft, pliable and infinitely useful. With a loose strap attached, they serve as carry-alls and holds agricultural products harvested in the fields, and coffee beans in the fincas of the Coast. The large fronds of the royal palm are used in the Pacific region to roof many of the buildings, from small huts to shopping centers.
Palm fronds are the material of the universally worn sombreros, small covered oval and round baskets to hold make-up, jewelry, sewing tools, kitchen items, etc. Delicate little cases hold eyeglasses, money and cigarettes. Plaiting palm fronds is fine work and done with dampened, split pieces that are colored by dipping them into clay dye pots. The red, green and magenta patterns are lovely in sombreros as well as baskets. The fresh smell of a newly woven sombrero permeates the nostrils as though the palms are still growing close-by. Purses and beach bags are also nicely made.
Reeds are thicker and less pliable than palm fronds and are used for bird cages, fireworks frames and the more rigid baskets. A handsome basket for holding tortillas is made with broad, flat splints. This basket is even copied in miniature out of alpaca (nickel silver); other tiny basket forms appear in jewelry stores made of precious metals, to be used for pill boxes. Another important utilitarian product is the "petate" or mat, usually 4 x 6', very good as a floor covering for summer homes and a beach mat. The thinner ones are used in Mexico to wrap flowers to go to market, and little ones hung from the rafters make baby cradles. Tiny baskets of both wicker and palm hang on strings in the market stalls and are used as party favors, for holding drink glasses and toys.
The large "carrizo" or split bamboo baskets used to transport pottery and other goods are called "canastos." These are good laundry baskets, come with tops and function well for shipping from Mexico to the U.S. Fantastic bird cages of "carrizo" come from villages southwest of Tlacolula, principally Papalutla and Guelavia. They are constructed in the form of churches with cupolas and chickens on top or small houses, others are shelves for dishes, or toy trucks and airplanes. Another type of constantly used rigid basket is the "canasta," with a handle across the top and woven of reeds. These are hung over a woman's arm to go to market and be filled with what's for supper: tomatoes, eggs, cheese, rolls, a chicken. The Tlacolula and Abastos markets always have a supply of these baskets made in Papalutla and other near-by towns. Papalutla has recently started making handsome baskets with dark and light plaits in a design similar to one appearing on woven belts from Jalieza, where it represents the traditional feathered headdress of the dancer who imitates the guacamaya, a tropical bird symbolizing the God Quetzalcoatl.
An important use of "carrizo" is making "cohetes" or fireworks, the job of a "cohetero," who nonchalantly wanders about under his spark-spouting creations (often missing a few finger digits). The "cohetero" combines gunpowder first imported by the Spaniards with the Mexican talent for extravagant display. Fiestas are just not fiestas without fireworks and "toritos," the little bulls. A bamboo frame shaped like a small bull's upper body is covered with paper and fitted with pinwheels, rockets and other explosives made from magnesium and black power. Teenage boys take turns running the contraption around, turning and charging like a real little bull and sending delicious waves of terror through the audience.
The grand finale for big festivals is a more elaborate creation called a "castillo" (castle tower), up to three and four stories in height and again fitted with a maximum of exploding devices. When it is lit, the top whirls around and miniature soldiers shoot their cannons into the audience. The contraption gyrates, showers sparks, makes horrible noises, scares-to-death and enraptures the audience: "Star Wars" and "Jurassic Park" rolled into one.
Some words of advice about buying baskets. Make sure the ends are tucked under and won't snag your sweater, the weaves are tight and the wrap-around pieces on the handles are attached well. The colored designs should be visible inside and out, or else they were painted on instead of dyed and may fade or run if gotten wet. Check to see if the baskets fold up; it is usually the ones with square bottoms that do.
SOURCES:
ABASTOS MARKET, City of Oaxaca. Any day of the week the aisles of bird case, harness, mats, baskets and rope are open for business. If you don't want to look for baskets in regional markets or villages, the Abastos market is an excellent substitute. Its vendors sell all the major forms of basketry, including items made especially for tourists like purses and beach bags. Often basket-makers are installed in the north entrance of the 20 de Noviembre Market or weaving their products at the Abastos Market on Saturdays. There is usually a vendor of beautiful soft baskets with colored geometric designs from the Mixteca in Labastida Park on Alcala.
AMATLAN, SAN LUIS (near Miahuatlan) Small, very fine palm baskets with dyed designs to hold money, eyeglasses,
etc.
Artisan: Teresa JimÇnez Peralta
ALBARRADAS, SAN LORENZO (18 kms. or 11 miles SE of Mitla) Palm products: bags, baskets, fans, mats, brooms Union de Productoras de Palma (Pascacio Olivera; 256-2-09-22)
Tejedoras de Palma (Hermelinda Martinez Sanchez; 256-2-09-22)
COYOTEPEC, SANTA MARIA (just N of San Bartolo Coyotepec, Hwy. 175 south) "Rodetes," rings to hold round-bottomed jars
GUELAVIA, SAN JUAN (SE of Oaxaca, S of Hwy. 190 before Teotitlan)
Bird cages and baskets of "carrizo"
Artisans:
Rogelio Hernandez Montoya (Moctezuma 43), Alejandra Angeles Martinez, Isabel
Cruz Cruz, JosÇ Garcia Lopez, Benito JosÇ Martinez Garcia, JosÇ Molina, Pablo
Cruz MÇndez, and Rogelio Garcia, the last one known for his bird cages.
JOCOTIPAC, SAN PEDRO (Cuicatlan District, Mixteca Alta near Puebla)
Public telephone: 237-8-02-95
Palm and straw figures, crucifixes, sombreros, mats, tenates
To get to the village is a long journey; some of the artisans also sell in the Abastos Market on Saturdays. They include Juan and Agripina Lopez, Gregoria Lopez MÇndoza, and Felipe Vasquez Lopez
MECHOACAN, SANTA CATARINA (near Jamiltepec, Pacific Coast)
A cooperative of artisans here produces rattan furniture from palm fibers
MOGOTE, SAN JOSE (south of Villa de Etla, off Hwy. 190 to Mexico)
Woven palm products: baskets, fans, mats
PAPALUTLA, SANTA CRUZ (south of Tlacochahuaya, SE of Oaxaca)
Bird cages of "carrizo," market baskets with handles, wastebaskets, laundry baskets, small round and oval open baskets
Artisans: Amador Martinez Antonio, Jesus Emilio Bernardino, Mayolo and Amado Cruz Vasquez
SOLA DE VEGA (Hwy. 131, S of Oaxaca)
Woven palm products: hats, mats, baskets, miniature figures. Many villages in the region make these products to sell in the local markets and in Oaxaca. A good selection of the endearing miniature figures from the region are for sale at the shop of the State Museum, in the convent of Santo Domingo Church in Oaxaca.
TEITIPAC, MAGDALENA (SE of Oaxaca, 11 kms. S of San Juan Guelavia)
"Carrizo" baskets
Artisans: Nicolas and Rufino Fructuoso
TLACOLULA de MATAMOROS (27 kms. or 17 miles E of Oaxaca, S of Hwy. 190)
All kinds of fiber products are sold at the Sunday market, and a store, Tienda La Asuncion owned by Cristobal Santiago, Juarez 17, carries bird cages, toys and baskets.
YAXE, SAN NICOLAS (26 kms. or 16 miles E of Ocotlan)
"Carrizo" baskets
Nuevo Amanecer Cooperative (Alberto Arango Rafael; 957-5-27-74; 5-26-75)
ZEGACHE, SANTA ANA (just NW of Ocotlan and San Antonino Castillo Velasco)
Reed baskets for tortillas with solid square bottoms and round openings.
FIBER PRODUCTS: HAMMOCKS, BAGS, ROPE, HORSE GEAR
Hammocks were one of the handiest inventions from the New World, recorded by the earliest chroniclers and quickly adopted by sailors around the world. Millions of Mexican people in tropical climates sleep in them, from the Yucatan in the Caribbean to up and down the Pacific Coast. The utilization of synthetic materials is cutting into the use of natural fiber products in the production of hammocks and woven bags. Hammocks and related items come from the Pacific coast, the Colonia Santa Anita in the City of Oaxaca and Tlacolula. In the handicrafts area of the Abastos Market a hammock-maker will combine any colors you want into any size hammock, from a baby cradle or chair sling to one for a family of four. The hammocks come in nylon and cotton; cotton is softer and perhaps cooler, but the nylon may last longer. The smaller net weaves are more comfortable than the more open ones.
Small bags to be hung over the shoulder are also produced by hammock makers in bright nylon colors or un-bleached cotton. They fold up small, expand a lot and can be thrown in the washing machine. These hammock bags are one of the best-looking carry-alls sold in Oaxaca and are favorites with the
beach crowd.
The fiber called "ixtle" comes from the maguey plant, extracted from its firm, fleshy, sharp-pointed leaves. It is made into twine and string, or woven, looped by needles and other techniques into bags, sacks, tack (halters), and hammocks. The large ixtle striped bags that before plastic were the standard shopping bag, can still be found in markets (look on the west side entrance of Benito Juarez Market in Oaxaca). Pita is another maguey fiber, finer than ixtle, used to create fancy trim on the edges of leather work. In Santa Catarina Mechoacan, north of Jamiltepec on the Pacific Coast, fibers from tree roots and parasite plants are used to make rattan furniture.
SOURCES
OAXACA, CITY OF
ABASTOS MARKET
Esperanza Martinez Mendoza, Stall 80, handicrafts section
Hammocks, horse gear, saddles
Adela Amador Martinez, Stall 11, handicrafts section
Saddles, hammocks, bags
HERNANDEZ CAVERO, IVONNE
Hammocks made of nylon and ixtle fiber (wholesale and retail)
Privada 5 de Febrero 110, Colonia Morelos; 5-74-80
MOLINA CARMEN, MAURO
Yaganiza , 1 de Mayo 505, Col. Santa Anita; 7-00-71
Manufactures hammocks
DISTRICT OF TLACOLULA
CAJONOS, SAN FRANCISCO ( in the mountains north of Teotitlan del Valle, about 4 hours from Oaxaca)
Ixtle bags, nets, hammocks, and rope
TLACOLULA de MATAMOROS (27 kms. or 17 miles E of Oaxaca, Hwy. 190)
Elda Garcia (manufacturer of nylon hammocks and bags) For sale in the handicrafts section at the Sunday market
CANDLES
Tall elaborate candles with wax, tinsel and paper flowers attached are a specialty of a few highly skilled artisans in Teotitlan del Valle. Fantasies in deep pinks, red and yellow, the candles are placed before altars in Teotitlan Valley churches. The candle-makers do a thriving local business because the elaborate candles are traditional gifts for bethrothals and required for weddings, saints' fiestas, baptisms and 15-year-old celebrations.
Viviana Alvarez Hipolito (Abasolo 7, Teotitlan del Valle) has spent most of her life making candles and invented the popular rose form, which she cuts into petals from hardened wax formed on a mold. Her aunt, Juana Hipolito, who is blind, fashions the stems. A son, JosÇ Hernandez Alvarez, is an expert assembler of the pieces. The most elaborate candles bring up to $200, not considered high in this village made rich from rug sales.
CORN HUSK FIGURES ("TOTOMOXTLE")
The elaboration of dried corn husks is a traditional craft in the village of San Antonino Castillo Velasco. Small figures and village scenes including religious processions and bands of musicians, are the creations of Hermenegildo Contreras Cruz and his brother. They won a national contest in Veracruz with their "jarocho" dance and a bevy of Oaxaca beauties in regional costume. The brothers also work with straw flowers, the "flor inmortal." Work in both materials is displayed at the Zocalo on the Night of the Radishes, December 23rd, when the artisans set up elaborate scenes in these unusual and ephemeral forms of popular art.
Other "totomoxtle" artisans live in barrios of the city of Oaxaca. Antonio Cruz Gomez and his father, Manuel Cruz Ramos, have presented a crucifixion scene for many years. Eduardo Lubo is a regular prize-winner in the Zocalo. One recent Christmas he created a procession from Tehuantepec, inspired by the gaiety of festivals of the region. Every year he does a different theme.
CRUZ GOMEZ, ANTONIO
Fiallo 929, Barrio de la Noria, City of Oaxaca
LUBO, EDUARDO
Benito Juarez Market, stall 193
Corral 309, Colonia Bugambilia, City of Oaxaca
PERENNIAL or IMMORTAL FLOWERS ("FLOR INMORTAL")
San Antonio Castillo Velasco, just north of Ocotlan, is the home of the brothers Timoteo and Delfino Lopez Godine, who create tiny, richly colored objects and scenes from straw flowers. They specialize in religious and popular themes such as processions and festivals. Manuel Raymundo Cordova also does work in this art form and sells his charming tiny bouquets of flower just inside the east entrance of the Benito Juarez Market in Oaxaca.
GLASSWARE
The hand-blown glasses for wine, highballs, mezcal, and tequila, the pitchers, and other glassware with brown, blue and green rims are from Jalisco or the State of Mexico. The unique bubble patterns and natural look have made them continuing best-sellers. They are sold all over Mexico, across the U.S. and in a few shops in Oaxaca: AROXA (Garcia Vigil 212), FONART (M. Bravo 116) and LA MANO MAGICA (Alcala 203).
GOURDS
Dried gourds for use as cups, bowls or dippers come from Pinotepa de Don Luis and Jicayan on the Pacific coast. They are made by a cooperative headed by Felipe Lopez Marino and Abacuc Avenda§o Ruiz. The gourds are cut in half and incised with patterns of animals and birds (usually tigers and crows), geometric bands, and flowers. When the gourd is carved green the raised design is green, or brown when carved dry. The incised round gourds with wooden handles and seeds inside called "maracas" or "chinchines" (the local name) are for making music in marimba bands. One can also buy "bules," the gourd carried to hold water by country people. It has two bulbs-shaped sections and a small corked opening in the top, with an attractive patina and the sculptural beauty of a natural object.
SOURCES
CITY OF OAXACA
CENTRAL DE ABASTOS MARKET: for sale in the handicrafts section
SHOPS: VICTOR/ARTES REGIONALES (Porfirio Diaz 111) and YALALAG (Alcala 104)
PACIFIC COAST: made in the towns of Jicayan and Pinotepa de Don Luis north of Pinotepa Nacional Gourds and "chinchines" (like "maracas") and "bules" or gourd water carriers
JEWELRY
The costumes of native women are enhanced with beautiful accessories that adapt well to modern dress: wide belts called "fajas" which gather native skirt folds together or can belt a pair of jeans, shawls ("rebozos") to drape around the shoulders or spread across a table; and jewelry, simply gorgeous jewelry in an imaginative variety of styles and materials.
The Mixtecs of Oaxaca were some of the most accomplished jewelers of the ancient Americas, working in gold, silver, copper, shell, and stone with sophisticated techniques including inlay, the lost-wax process and repoussÇ, which pressed thin sheets of metal into molds. They could fuse two metals, hence their worship of Xipe, the "Flayed God," who wore the skin of a sacrificial victim. Their finest work symbolized gods and sacred beliefs, so the Spanish friars rapidly did away with both the worship of Xipe and the native jewelry industry. Today the best-known pieces of Mixtec jewelry, the gold, silver and turquoise necklaces, earrings and other pieces are accurately copied in gold, gold-plated silver and silver. You can buy and wear the God of Jewelers on your chest, or Mictlantecuhtl, the God of Life and Death, or perhaps a design inspired by the Mixtec ball game.
Leading in the production of these replicas is the family firm of ORO DE MONTE ALBAN, whose workshop in Oaxaca on Gurrion Street can be visited, and whose jewelers duplicate the techniques of the ancient Mixtecs. Making jewelry is an extensive industry in Oaxaca with a great many shops and manufacturers (see the City of Oaxaca list in this guide for some of them).
During the colonial period, workers in precious metals spent most of their efforts on works for the Church: altar table fronts, chalices, candlesticks, altar railings, plates, etc. Later, the homes of the rich were furnished with fine pieces of silver, and Spanish travelers carried their own silver eating utensils. European designs were a strong influence, and the filigree or "filigrana" technique was introduced from Spain, where it had been learned from the Arabs.
Oaxaca is justly famous for its beautiful filigree jewelry. Built up using fine wires and mounted with pearls, coral or stones, it appears as earrings, bracelets, pendants, chains, and necklaces with coins attached. The statuesque women of Tehuantepec are celebrated for their elaborate filigree jewelry, today more often kept in the bank except on the occasion of their grand balls. It comes in 10, 12, 14 or 18 carat gold and is also sold in large quantities on market stands as "chapa de oro," which is not even gold-dipped, much less the real thing. A handsome Tehuana named Blanchita Rojas is one of those selling this jewelry in the Zocalo portal under the Government Palace during festivals, and otherwise in the north (center) entrance to the 20 de Noviembre Market. A few shops in Mexico City carry good Oaxaca filigree jewelry; one is SOLARTE MEXICANO at Amberes 1-B near the corner of Reforma in the Zona Rosa, tel. 511-1384. (See City of Oaxaca list in this guide for shops selling filigree.)
Baroque jewelry from the colonial period was of silver backed by gold and made into rings, earrings, bracelets, and necklaces mounted with synthetic "white sapphires." One can buy good reproductions in major stores (try EL DIAMANTE on Garcia Vigil near Independencia and XIPE on 5 de Mayo across from the Camino Real Hotel). Pearls are much admired in Oaxaca; the fisherman gave extraordinary pearls to the Virgin of the Soledad, who has an magnificent wardrobe. A popular 19th century type of jewelry, still much sought-after, is called "cartoneada." It combines gold and silver mounts with pearls, popular forms being the "M," the "worm," and "the garden." These pieces are still sold in many shops and priced according to their gold content, quality of workmanship and whether or not they have real or imitation pearls and stones.
Silver jewelry from Taxco is carried by numerous shops in Oaxaca, particularly on the tourist lanes of Alcala and Garcia Vigil. It is characterized by modern, tailored designs in highly polished silver, often set with semi-precious stones. Be careful buying stones sold as "Mexican"; only opals and amethysts are native in quantity. Obsidian is not really a gem, and "jade" is either jadeite, serpentine or nephrite, a low grade of jade, darker, oilier, often faked and imported. Recently Taxco jewelers have been combining contrasting matte and polished surfaces in the same pieces. The fret designs inspired by Mitla's pyramid reliefs were adapted in silver by the late William Spratling, the American who revived the silver industry in Taxco. Three shops carring the Taxco silver are in the Plaza Santo Domingo (Alcala 407): TAXCO PLATERIA, ARTESANIA'S MAYS, and FLOR DEL CIELO.
A form of popular art now seen in contemporary jewelry is the silver "milagro," usually a body part, heart, arm, hand, etc., but sometimes an animal or even automobile. These were originally destined to hang on the flannel apron before the image of a "santo" in churches, to request a favor or a cure or give thanks for one. Now the little "milagros" (not always in silver) are hung on earrings, bracelets and necklaces. The sunburst motif with a face in the center is a currently popular item in gold, silver and in combination. Italian jewelers in Patzcuaro are selling their work to Oaxaca shops, and other work by foreign artisans appears as well. Every shop seems to have the antique-looking silver pieces with the sun, moon and stars motif. A century ago, Indian village artisans created somewhat similar work. Revival of this work was fostered by the government agency FONART in the 1970's, combining Spanish colonial, ethnic and the modern ideas of foreign artisans. Today's versions come mostly from Cuernavaca and Mexico city, in addition to Oaxaca.
A great many local shops carry the Yalalag crosses, which have three smaller ones dangling from the ends and are hung on long chains. Once crafted of good, hammered silver, for about fifty years they have been made in molds and often from coins with less silver content. The crosses are eagerly sought after as one of the few forms of native Indian jewelry available and also come in gold. Mexican silver production, both mining and manufacturing, has been strictly controlled by the government since early colonial days. Sterling is .925 or more pure silver and stamped .925 or sterling on the back, sometimes also with the silversmith's mark, the Mexican eagle or an "O" over an "M."
Other popular forms of jewelry, some of them native to Oaxaca, include the black and red coral necklaces, bracelets and earrings from the Coast. Real coral commands a hefty price. The jail in Pochutla is known for selling coral, but watch out for plastic. The tiny coral beads are made from pieces struck off when branches of coral are cut to go on more expensive necklaces. This coral, which also comes in pink, is relatively inexpensive, like the "river pearls" in bracelets and necklaces, fresh water pearls in appearance but not real pearls. The name derives from their origin in coastal river towns where the lining of shells is cut and polished into pearl forms. Fake or not, these necklaces are pretty and do the job on the little black dress.
Another attractive jewelry combines stones, amber from Chiapas (avoid the amber sold by sidewalk vendors), clay and glass beads, silver pieces, leather, and other metals. Among the most good-looking are the necklaces of round stone; the beads look like turquoise (matrix and all), lapis lazuli, and other semiprecious stones. This is costume jewelry; the stones are real but are artificially colored and mostly quartz.
The vendors at Labastida Park make their own jewelry, often exquisite for street jewelry. They buy the makings from Taxco, Mexico City and other sources, and each piece is an original design. The Alameda Park always has a jewelry stand or two, and other artisans hawk their work on the Pacific beaches. A regular vendor in the Alameda is Guadalupe Juarez, whose family assembles much of what they sell (address is Ni§os HÇroes Street in Xoxocotlan, just south of the city; call her son at 2-22-45). They maintain a stand with the same merchandise at Monte Alban archaeological site: the beaded stone necklaces, "aserina," a shiny black stone, granite, tiger's eye, malacite, fire agate, river pearls, and coral. Sometimes you can still find the multiple strands of tiny glass beads worn over huipiles in the Indian villages, where treasured heirlooms may have early trade beads mixed in, from Venice and even the Orient.
Delicate bamboo pendants with incised designs are being made on the Pacific Coast and sold at the Club Med in Huatulco. Shell jewelry and hair ornaments and brightly painted, lacquered wood earrings are found frequently in resort shops. The single strand clay, stone and glass bead necklaces and others with leather palm tree and sunbursts hanging are amusing casual accessories and appropriately priced. Hanging in the market place stalls are clay bead necklaces from the pottery villages of Atzompa and Coyotepec. With little chickens, ducks and fish, these look best when two different ones are worn at once.
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LACQUER WARE
A plethora of lacquered gourds, masks, trays, and boxes are for sale in Oaxaca, and almost all of it comes from the State of Michoacan and Olinala, Guerrero, although the vendors will swear they make it themselves. Origin clear or not, the lacquer items are attractive, colorful, inexpensive, and heir to one of the oldest and most celebrated crafts in Mexico. Mexican lacquer is as long-lasting as oriental lacquer if correctly applied and hardens with age. The cheaper lacquer items, which are most of the gourds, are likely to have painted-on designs. You can buy the flower-decorated gourds in many shops, in market places and in front of the Cathedral. The ones with tops are useful for holding paper clips, make-up, cookies, sugar, you name it.
LEATHER GOODS
The Spanish introduced leather working to Mexico along with cattle and sheep, the source of hides. The craft has reached impressive heights along with the horse cult, where some of the best work is employed. The Charro or expert Mexican rider dresses himself and his horses magnificently. Saddles are elaborately decorated with tooled designs, silver and gold thread embroidery, inserts of colored leather, sometimes additional details in silver. The less
expensive horse gear is sold in market places.
The Benito Juarez Market has a whole aisle of leather goods including the Mexican sandal or "huarache," the most popular footgear in the country; belts, hats, leather and suede jackets, purses, briefcases, desk sets, suitcases, and wallets. Different regions of Oaxaca produce their own variety of the "huarache," such as Miahuatlan and Yalalag in the Sierra de Juarez, but you can probably find a good pair in local markets.
When buying leather shoes choose soft, flexible material, and check, by putting your hand inside, for rough edges, metal pieces or knots that could be bothersome. The two shoes may not match exactly, so try on both. With huaraches, buy ones with fairly thick soles (they last longer and provide better support). When purchasing larger leather items, examine the surface for flaws or breaks that may have been filled in with another piece of leather or other substance. Hand-tooled designs are preferable and cut deeper into the leather than machine-stamped patterns, which may be disguising flaws.
SOURCES
OAXACA, CITY OF
CENTRAL DE ABASTOS MARKET
Israel Rosas, Stall 18, handicrafts section
(ready-made and to-order huaraches)
Alfonso Ramos Jacinto, Stall 193, handicrafts section
Belts, wallets, bags, key chains, good quality and variety
BENITO JUAREZ MARKET near 20 de Noviembre, on the west side aisle
Huaraches, sandals, wallets, hats, bags, belts
20 de NOVIEMBRE MARKET, exterior west side. Belts, bags, wallets
Silva Martinez, Abraham (20 de Noviembre Market)
Stall 19 (exterior, 20 de Noviembre St.); 6-45-35
Manufacturer in business for many years with good quality products.
Tooled leather handbags, wallets, larger bags
MARTINEZ RIOS, MARIA AURORA
Av. Montoya 515 near Central de Abastos, Col. Lazaro Cardenas
San Martin Mexicapan; 2-01-62
Members of the co-op M.A.R.O. at 5 de Mayo 204.
Sandals, small leather goods
EJUTLA DE CRESPO (65 kms. or 40 miles S of Oaxaca, Hwy. 175 S to Miahuatlan)
Bags, portfolios, jackets, belts. Find in shops and the market place or inquire at the government offices.
MIAHUATLAN DE PORFIRIO DIAZ (105 kms. or 65 miles from Oaxaca, Hwy. 175 south)
Riding chaps ("capulines"), jackets, belts, bags, portfolios, sandals. Buy in shops or the market place or inquire for manufacturers in local government offices.
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